Exploring the American Wilderness and Other Adventures

Charleston, South Carolina, Chapter 2

NNPS Graduation, Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum

The last time I was in Charleston, (here) Lolo was graduating the Navy Nuclear Power Training Command (NNPTC). The step following that graduation is called Navy Nuclear Power School (NNPS), or Prototype. That school is still in Charleston, and the students work on actual nuclear reactors for 24 weeks. This school is where Lolo shined. He lived in a massive house with a bunch of his friends and a great deal of liberty over his time. Prototype is hands on and he was able to demonstrate proficiency over the material confidently. After 24 weeks (Lolo completed the requirements in 20 weeks), these sailors have their final graduation in preparation for their first duty stations. Everything he had worked for came to this conclusion – a formal ceremony on the USS Yorktown for the Navy and family members to take photos and share their pride of the accomplishments of their service member.

Affectionately, “Some Fuckin Admiral” presented at the graduation. He talked for a long time about how difficult of a thing the sailors had just accomplished and how rare of an individual it is that can go through “the pipeline” from beginning to end and keep going. As though the families do not know already, they are are the ones who have been trying to help their sailor keep their heads attached to their necks and remind them that there would be an end. He talked about how doing something as difficult as this school does not only require individuals to step up to the rigorous academic requirements, but to also experience extreme character development. Some Fuckin Admiral talked about the importance for not just the students, but for all people to openly and boldly admit and accept their errors. To learn from our mistakes, keep our heads high, and keep moving forward. He also talked about how we have a responsibility to the world around us to continue to grow, even after we have achieved our goals – specifically, he said “Find the need and fill it. Don’t wait.” Lastly, Some Fuckin Admiral talked about how the only failure is quitting and how the Navy would always have empathy until failure. He said that failure should never be an option and that the sailors will always have support until they quit. I am not sure the sailors believed any of that, especially after all they have experienced in the last two years, but it was a stellar presentation for the families to feel confident sending their sailors off to their submarines and aircraft carriers.

Downtown Charleston

Barbarian Scientist was able to go on this trip with me and so many of the things I had done with Lolo before, we did again. I did not arrive with a huge agenda this time, so we spent a lot of time just wandering from one place to another and at Lolo’s house. I have returned to school, so I had to have time to write my papers and the guys did not mind the down time at all. We went to Big John’s Tavern for the first graduation drink. We went to a place called Lola’s, where Barbarian Scientist ate alligator. We eventually ended up at the Tattooed Moose, which is my favorite place in Charleston. It is a huge and inclusive dive that has indoor and outdoor stages, Pride flags everywhere, and sharpies for guests to share messages on any surface.

We went out with one of Lolo’s friends, Durant and Durant’s dad. My favorite place was called Henry’s On The Market. I am definitely not cool enough for that place. It is nearly 100 years old and is a multi level club with a bar and stage on each level. We hung out on the rooftop, where we had a beautiful view of Charleston.

We went to many really great places with the guys, but another favorite of mine was The Griffon. It is smaller and pretty low-key, but has money EVERYWHERE. Every surface of the club is covered in money. I have never seen anything like it.

Hyman’s Seafood is a Charleston must-do. It is over 100 years old and a spot where many famous people eat. The tables have brass plates to honor the famous individuals who ate at that spot. Dolly Parton, Oprah, and Michael Phelps are just a few of the names on tables.

We had one more night on the town, but I was not up to it and I also had homework. Barbarian Scientist took me out for Asian food and a rickshaw ride before I tucked into the hotel for the night and he went to party. The rickshaw was so much fun! While we were there, the Charleston Literary Festival was happening so there was a lot of cool displays of books and vendor tents. The next morning, we went to Big Bad Breakfast (BBB), which I now say is another Charleston must-do. The guys were hurting a bit from the previous night and BBB had the cure for it.

The Tavern at Rainbow Row is the oldest liquor store in the US. It was originally “Seafarer’s Tavern,” but at some point became The Tavern. It has a history with pirates and, of course, war. It is kind of like a museum inside with how much work has been put into restoring the original architecture and furniture. They specialize in rare and unique drinks – Lolo enjoys dark, rich beer, and last time he chose one that costs over $25. This time, the beer he chose was $75!

Cypress Gardens, Moncks Corner, SC

Cypress Gardens, in Moncks Corner, is another place Lolo and I had gone to before, but I wanted to show Barbarian Scientist and also see it with fall colors, so we went again. We again rowed around the swamp and walked the trails around the swamp. You might recall from when I wrote about my last trip here that The Notebook was filmed here, as well as many other famous shows and movies. “Cypress Gardens is a tribute to the admiration the Kittredge family had for the rich and bountiful Lowcountry landscape. They recognized the unique beauty of the old Dean Hall rice fields and invested their time and money to protect and enhance this iconic 19th century landscape.”

Biggins Cemetery, Moncks Corner, SC

Also in Moncks Corner is Biggins Cemetery. The church was originally built in 1711, then rebuilt after forest fire destruction in in 1755. It then became an important place during the Revolutionary War and again damaged during Potter’s Raid in 1865.

The church was allegedly not repaired after this event, and Strawberry Chapel, eight miles below Biggin, became the de facto parish church. The church was only used for occasional services after 1865. The vestry of St. Johns, Berkeley tried to secure the damaged church by fastening the doors and windows, but these were periodically broken open. Sometime during 1886 the church burned for the third time (the second time that it burned by forest fire), after which it was ultimately abandoned and never rebuilt. For many years after the fire, the site served as a local brickyard as people scavenged bricks from the structure for their own use. During the late twentieth century, however, the graveyard began to be used again. Use of the site as a brickyard ceased.

Portions of two walls are all that remain of the church today, those being the southern and western walls. For the two walls that are no longer standing, only the grade-level stem wall remains visible a few inches above and at the level of the ground. Despite the destruction of a large portion of the building, there is evidence that Biggin Church was originally designed with a degree of sophistication. Notable architectural details include a Gibbs surround at the entrance, quoins at the corners, voussoirs over the windows, and a rounded water table. All of these features were expertly crafted out of brick. On the interior walls, ghost marks in the remaining plaster and mortise pockets in the masonry are evidence of where the wooden balcony tied into the structure. This balcony was at the west end of the church, and was proposed on December 31, 1844 to separate African Americans from white parish members in the pews below.

Today, the Biggin Church ruins are kept and cared for by a group of men who are the Biggin Church Stewards. The ruins were for a time, overgrown and in a state of neglect and decay, but in recent decades have undergone stabilization and conservation. Biggin Church is on the National Register of Historic Places. Its graveyard is in use once more, and its ruins and grounds are open to the public.

https://www.biggincemetery.com/

McLeod Plantation Historical Site, Charleston, SC

The last time I was here, we toured the famous Magnolia Plantation and Gardens and Boone Hall Plantation and Gardens. Barbarian Scientist has never toured a plantation before, so I chose a new-to-me one to tour and it was not quite the same. While Magnolia and Boone Hall are very immersive, McLeod Plantation was not. McLeod Plantation is a county park and funded as such, so there were less tour guides and exhibits, so I feel like Barbarian Scientist really missed out.

Established in 1851, McLeod Plantation has borne witness to some of the most significant periods of our nation’s history. Today McLeod Plantation Historic Site is an important 37-acre Gullah/Geechee heritage site that has been carefully preserved in recognition of its cultural and historical significance. The grounds include a riverside outdoor pavilion, a sweeping oak allée, and the McLeod Oak, which is thought to be more than 600 years old.

https://www.ccprc.com/1447/McLeod-Plantation-Historic-Site

Angel Oak Tree, John’s Island, SC

THE FAIRYTALE-ESQUE ANGEL OAK TREE in Charleston, South Carolina, is thought to be one of the oldest living oak trees east of the Mississippi River. It stands 65 feet (20 meters) tall and measures 28 feet in circumference. An area of 17,000 square feet is shaded by its tentacular crown. The largest branch reaches 187 feet. Estimated to be between 400 and 500 years old, this southern live oak has survived a number of hurricanes, floods, and earthquakes. It was damaged by Hurricane Hugo in 1989, but has recovered and continues to grow.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/the-angel-oak-tree-johns-island-south-carolina

The oak trees in the south are well-known for their size and shade coverage, but this one is so special. I have never seen anything like its long limbs continuing along the ground. The tree is protected by video cameras and there is a fence that limits access to the grounds. There is a small cabin that serves as an access point to visiting the tree as well as a gift shop.

I have procrastinated writing about this trip. Since I have returned, I got really sick and our dog (not Sam Dog, but our puppy, Luke, who we have had for over ten years), passed away, and the last two boys in town packed up and got on the road to join Lolo in Virginia. It has been a lot of things that I have not properly prepared myself to feel, if that is even possible.