Exploring the American Wilderness and Other Adventures

Lake Estelle, Hope, Idaho

Lake Estelle-Four Lakes is hike 54 in 100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest, where it is described as: An easy, well-maintained 2.7-mile hike into the lake gives hikers an opportunity to get into high country without much sweat or difficulty. Estelle is the queen of the four lakes in the area. Side trails to Blacktail and Moose Lake add the opportunity of sampling other small trout waters and the option for an excellent 9-mile loop route over Moose Mountain. Moose Lake, also popular with campers, is as easy to reach as Lake Estelle by trail but almost 400 feet lower in elevation. Yes, moose are often found throughout the area. Nearby Gem Lake provides another good excursion, either from a separate trailhead or via an optional scramble route from Estelle. The trails are heavily used.

When I visited Lake Estelle, I backpacked the 9-mile Moose Lake Loop. Because it is such an easy trail system, I brought luxuries like bottled IPAs. Oh, how I miss drinking IPAs. Also, fuck you, cancer. I set up camp at Moose Lake because it was slightly less swarmed with mosquitos than other tent sites.

Although Lake Estelle, in the Cabinet Mountains and Idaho Panhandle National Forest, is the most beautiful lake in the loop, with its crystal clear water and brilliant granite mountainsides, Moose Lake turned out to be quite rewarding. While sitting at my campfire and enjoying the mentioned IPAs, many deer visited the camp. They appeared too comfortable with my presence, so despite their beauty, I had to be obnoxious to make them afraid of me. It worked until they returned. There is a bear box near the established campsites, which I ended up being more thankful for than I could have imagined I would be prior to that night.

I do not know what exactly woke me, but I was disturbed in the middle of the night. The first thing I remember is the smell. Then the rustling against my tent. I lay there as still as possible, attempting to take in as many details as I could, but mostly hearing my heartbeat in my ears and trying to decide if I was afraid or not. Soon, I heard water splashing, and after that continued, I chose to unzip my tent rainfly to see if I could safely identify what was happening in the world around me. First, I saw the huge moon. It seemed so close that I might be able to grab it. And its reflection on the lake was so beautiful it seemed imaginary. And in that beautiful reflection was a bear. A black bear was fishing and swimming directly in front of my tent beneath the full moon. The sound of my heart in my ears was so loud that I could not hear anything aside from that and the splashing water. The bear had left the water at some point to brush against my tent again. And returned to the water again. I was so thankful I had left my fire lit; I think it provided some safety. There was no sleeping that night as I listened to the bear swimming, fishing, and walking between the forest and the lake until sunrise.

While exploring that area, set your maps to include Char Falls, an unmarked and hidden waterfall in the Cabinet Mountains. You will park on the side of the forest road at an unmarked location, and when Barbarian Scientist and I went in the middle of the summer, the path to the falls was quite rugged and overgrown but very short and worth it. Depending upon where you meet the falls, you can climb up to see more dramatic fall views or climb down to see the continuing ribbon of crystal-clear mountain runoff. I am sure that you will agree with me that it is hard to believe how this waterfall has not become more well-known, but I am thankful it is so far underrated.

I suggest you obtain reservations for Lunch Peak Lookout and explore these special places during your time at the lookout. You can drive to Lunch Peak (instead of backpacking); it is a great lookout for those who may have an aversion to heights. Barbarian Scientist and I rented it when my Navy sons took leave to visit us. We laughed so hard on that mountain peak and made memories that I cherish. If you have never taken the people you love to sing, dance, laugh, and cry in the middle of the forest and on the top of a mountain, are they even people you love?