Exploring the American Wilderness and Other Adventures

Steamboat Rock Loop, Steamboat Rock State Park, Washington and More

For a very long time, it has been planned that for Earth Day weekend, I would be kicking it on the trails in Hells Canyon, doing rad trail work with rad people and Hells Canyon Recreation Collaborative for four days. It makes for an incredible weekend, as I have written about here. But cancer ruins everything.

Plan B landed me at Steam Boat Rock State Park, Washington, for one night. It was not the giant adventure I had anticipated for months, but it was still an adventure. Many years ago, I had hiked Northrup Canyon (hike 3 in 100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest), but I cannot find the photos of it, so the plan was that I was going to hike the Steamboat Rock Loop one day, then camp and hike Northrup Canyon after packing up camp. As it goes, I had an incredible hike at Steamboat Rock Loop while Barbarian Scientist ran it (twice), and then during the descent, I fell. And broke my hand a bit. Stupid stupid stupid. We returned to camp, enjoyed a campfire dinner and strong margaritas, then wrestled with a beautiful storm all night that stole our sleep. The rain had not ended by the time the following day began, so we packed up camp and bailed.

Steamboat Rock Loop ended up being about 4.5 miles with a 925’eg, and most of that elevation happened the first mile. 100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest: Steamboat Rock is a spectacular basalt butte jutting up 800 feet from Banks Lake in central Washington. Generations before the Columbia River Irrigation Project pumped water from behind Grand Coulee Dam and created Banks Lake, Steamboat Rock was used as a landmark by Indians. Ditto for early settlers and modern pilots. Hikers can explore nearly 640 acres on the top of the butte, from which they can contrast close views of the desert with the glaciated spectacle of the North Cascades in the distance.

Grand Coulee Dam, Electric City, Washington

As mentioned above, Grand Coulee Dam is responsible for Banks Lake. It is a field trip all on its own but is also only a 40-minute drive from Steamboat Rock State Park. The Columbia River is one of the most dammed rivers, and the Grand Coulee Dam is the largest powerhouse in the US. The only time civilians can be on the dam is for a really hilly marathon I’ve run, and it’s really cool and worth running. Which, of course, is my preferred way to see the dam. Otherwise, visiting Coulee Dam, WA to tour the visitor center and see the free laser light show is a great way to witness and understand an important landmark in the US.

Sun Lakes-Dry Falls State Park, Coulee City, Washington

A 30-minute drive will get you to another incredible Washington State Park with similar geology – Sun Lakes-Dry Falls State Park. This was once the location of the planet’s largest waterfall. Now, it’s miles and miles and miles of scablands surrounded by coulees for me to hike. It’s beyond amazing. I suggest you begin at the visitor center if you have not been there. You will get views of the area before you head down to hike it. It is one of my favorite places to stomp around and helps me remember that if nature can change and still be incredibly beautiful, then maybe I can, as well. For some reason, it only reached the appendix of 100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest: From Sun Lakes State Park Campground south of Coulee City, Washington, drive the Deep Lake-Dry Falls Lake Road 1.2 miles to the Camp Delany Trailhead. hike to Camp Delany, then go up the coulee through impressive basalt rock formations to Green Lake and a nearby overlook of Dry Falls, once the biggest waterfall on earth when all of this was created thousands of years ago by the great Ice Age floods.

I love the desert. To be in the open sun and air, where it is so hard for life to survive, is home for me.

Lake Lenore Caves State Park, Soap Lake, Washington

And while you are close, you should take an hour to see Lake Lenore Caves Trail. It is more evidence of the Ice Age floods and was also a landmark used by Native Americans. It is not worth going out of your way entirely, as it is only 1.5 miles and less than 200’eg, but it is definitely worth the stop if you are already out there.

Soap Lake, Soap Lake, Washington

It’s okay to just wander through life finding interesting things until you die. While you are out exploring, why would you not also stop here? Soap Lake is a meromictic soda lake formed by the Great Missoula Flood. It has 23 minerals, making it the world’s most mineral-rich body of water. We stayed at the Smokiam RV Resort to stay directly on Soap Lake.

They have RV spots, tent camping, cabins, and teepees. I am not sure why anyone would choose anything other than a teepee – as you can see, they are really very nice. They come with linens, towels, and toiletries. Each site is built on a platform with two Adirondack chairs, a picnic table, and a fire pit. They have adult-only hours for the hot tub, and they rent all kinds of water toys.

The mineral content makes the water feel soapy, hence the name. It also makes the sand feel more like clay when wet, and when it is dry, it is white and coarse. To me, it is an entire sensory experience.

Central Washington is a very special place. I still need to go hike Northrup Canyon again so I can blog about it, so maybe I will catch you on a free day, and we will explore these gems together – It’s okay to just wander through life finding interesting things until you die.