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Exploring the American Wilderness and Other Adventures

Creative chaos, new places, wild beauty, and spontaneous adventures

Stevens Lakes, Murray, Idaho

This is hike 30 in 100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest: Popular among weekend campers, this hike quickly leads from Interstate 90 to an area of quiet alpine lakes in the western reaches of the Bitterroot Mountains. The lakes are situated at the brink of timberline below Stevens Peak and just a ridge west of St. Regis Lakes (see hike 29). Stevens Peak was named in the 1800s by Captain John Mullan for Isaac Stevens, governor of Washington Territory and later a general in the Civil War. Stevens reportedly climbed the peak in 1853 to get a lay of the land. Good choice, since it’s the highest peak in the area.

Trail view

I hiked this trail many years ago for the first time. I broke my ankle on the descent, which is how I learned about the Spokane Mountaineers. They were doing a trail work project, and when we intersected, they were very helpful with my self-made crisis, hiking to the trailhead with me to provide support and then giving me ice and wrapping my ankle when we got to their vehicles. When I began writing about the 100 Hikes, I highlighted the names in the book of the trails I had already completed so I knew what I could write about in my leisure and what trails I still needed to tackle. For a year, Stevens Lakes has been highlighted but not written about. I could not find my pictures from that first trip. It has bothered me this entire time to have the name highlighted but not yet crossed off. Now, the mischief has been managed,

The climb up is pretty quick to views like this.

I was first supposed to hike with Trailkat, but she decided she wanted to have an adventure with other people and not me. My Therapist and I had the following day scheduled to share, so we tackled this trail together. It was a beautiful day. The road to the trailhead is pretty rough, but with careful navigation, I think any vehicle could make it. The parking lot is large, and there is a toilet. With only a brief intersection with one other group, we had the mountain to ourselves. We enjoyed the cool weather and the brilliant fall colors. But, this trail is quite a workout – we clocked 5.71 miles and 2,106′ elevation. The trail climbs alongside a beautiful waterfall, and there are a handful of side trails that lead you down to have closer access to the water. The first lake is Lower Stevens, and it is undeniably beautiful. There are several campsites on the lake, including a pretty epic one on a rocky peninsula that sticks out into the lake from the shore. Just a bit beyond the peninsula, the trail continues to a short climb to Upper Stevens, which is equally beautiful. There is an incredible adventure that brings one from Stevens Lakes to Stevens Peak, then down to another alpine lake called Lone Lake, then to the trailhead. If we were not short on daylight, that would have been our preferred adventure.

Lower Stevens Lake
Upper Stevens Lake
Trail View

I have said it before, but I do not know what I think until I hike about it. To be able to process my thoughts with such an incredible friend who also happens to be a mental health therapist while we are gassing ourselves in the wilderness is such a privilege. We were able to process our shared experiences about people we both know, parenting, and marriage. We spent the day planning gigantic future goals and re-committing to support one another in our overflowing plates of responsibility and self-care. She is such a fierce and tender-hearted friend. She reminds me a lot of Cairnes in that way. I do not know if it is age or maturity or facing mortality, but I am learning quickly that not everyone is my friend, even when they say they are. This makes me even more thankful for these two. To always be accepted as you are, where you are, is nearly as special as climbing a little mountain covered in autumn colors. I am here for all of it.

Stevens Lakes Trail crosses the old path to a railroad that came through the region to support mining. On the way to the trailhead, you will pass a mine that is still operational, built on the site of an old mine.