Upper Coeur d’Alene River National Recreation Trail, Murray, Idaho
Finding ways to feel good in the gap of space between where you are and where you want to be is everything.
I was supposed to go on an epic trip to the San Juan Islands on the Washington coast, courtesy of J Go. We were going to stay at her family cabin on Lopez Island and hike and bike and watch whales and experience a bioluminescent kayak tour. The Shipwreck Coast backpack trip taught me that I am burned out. I have been working so hard on my therapy and other goals and found myself discouraged and overwhelmed with disappointment that I am still not perfect. Because obviously, perfection is possible. Sigh. Stupid.
So, I canceled my attendance for that trip. I do not regret it, but I hope for another opportunity when I am in a better state of mind, further along in my journey of learning to cope with my grief. Meanwhile, TrailKat scored a reservation at Spyglass Lookout and invited me to share it with her. Lookout stays are special. They are simultaneously a reminder of how small we are, not just physically while sitting on a mountain peak in the middle of a mountain range, but also how small we are in the space of time. Lookouts are from a brief period when we could build these incredible structures in the most remote areas to be staffed by forest workers to watch for and report wildfires. The time between fire lookouts being erected and staffed and technological advancements to provide more proficient ways to report wildfires was short. Those advancements made the usefulness of lookouts obsolete, and now we spend every spring scouring recreation.gov for reservations to stay.
Spyglass Lookout is in the Coeur d’Alene River Basin, only a few hours from Coeur d’Alene. It is in the Idaho Panhandle National Forest, which is pretty wild. You can reserve many campgrounds, but even more dispersed backcountry camping spots exist. With that, there are many established and maintained hiking trails, and I cannot imagine how many unofficial hiking and Jeeping trails there must be.
On the way to the lookout, we hiked the Upper Coeur d’Alene River National Recreation Trail. It is hike 33 in 100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest, described as: an easy 14-mile hike that appeals to day hikers, overnighters, and fly fishers alike. It parallels the Upper Coeur d’Alene River, sometimes high above the stream, passing through Great Burn areas devastated by the 1910 fire. Scenic attractions along the trail include Steamboat Rocks and Cathedral Rocks, which tower above the river. Incidentally, Spion Kop, the unusual name of a mountain east of the trail near Jordan Camp, was named after a famous battle in the Boer War.
The trail was beautiful. The perfect weather gave us beautiful, warm, sunny, and shaded sections. The first half mile of the trail had four downed trees across the path, but I think they are there intentionally to discourage dirtbikes from using the trail. The rest of the trail was well-maintained. It was an easy trail with mostly slow-rolling ups and downs. My Strava says that the elevation gain was 1,348′. We crossed paths with countless dragonflies and a handful of wild mushrooms, but what I loved the most were the incredible rock formations.
After hiking, we drove a short distance to Spyglass Peak to spend the night. This lookout was unique to me in that it was originally a tower, but when it was decommissioned, the house was removed from the tower and is now a ground house. This meant that the typical clear views of the mountains I have experienced at other lookouts were mainly blocked by the surrounding forest. Driving, instead of backpacking, to the lookout allowed us to have some luxuries like actual pillows and whole food that we could cook on a campfire instead of the freeze-dried or dehydrated foods we often carry with us on wilderness adventures. The best part might have been watching the stars rapidly show themselves as the sun set and then seeing a shooting star show and the longest Starlink satellite system I have ever seen.
Fern and Shadow Falls is a short trail to see two beautiful waterfalls, but only after you earn it by traversing a somewhat stressful drive to the trailhead. The road requires a high-clearance vehicle that can handle rocks and river crossings. The trail is less than a mile, and I think any waterfall is worth a little adventurous drive, but if you read the reviews on many platforms, you will see that is not the popular opinion. Generative AI describes it as: The Fern and Shadow Falls hike is a family-friendly hike in the Idaho Panhandle National Forests. The hike is a 0.7 mile out-and-back trail that takes about 23 minutes to complete. The trail is considered moderately challenging. The hike takes you through a lush forest to a collection of waterfalls that cascade from Yellow Dog. The first falls you see is Fern Falls. Shadow Falls is 20-25 feet tall and is a beautiful cascade among moss-covered rocks.
Settlers Grove of Ancient Cedars is another worthy stop in this area. The road to the trailhead is only sometimes maintained. The trail is only sometimes maintained. It is the home to, you guessed it: ancient cedar trees. Forest fires and storms have ravaged this forest, and the evidence is everywhere. A few bridges along the trail make for beautiful photo props.
Finding ways to feel good in the gap of space between where you are and where you want to be is everything. Where you are and where you want to be. I think that is where most of are, but it is especially hard when where you want to be is where you WERE, and it was taken from you. Step by step, one trail after another, finding ways to feel good. It is everything.